Oaxaca Journal, Day 4

I read somewhere that you could divide El Centro in Oaxaca City into two distinct areas, using Avenida de la Independencia as the north/south dividing line. North of the Avenida is where all the tourist action is, and it's quite lively with all its shops and, of course, the main attraction of the Zocalo. But it's to the south that you'll find the real city, where tourists are few and locals are legion.

Exploring El Centro, Attending Teatro Macedonia Alcalá
Today's exploration set out to prove that theory. I left the apartment at about 8:30 a.m. after a refreshing shower, and headed directly to my little cafe near the basilica for mocha with two espresso shots. After this I ventured over to Avenida Las Casas (video below), with all the hustle and bustle of this first day of vacation week (Santa Semana) for the locals. The increase of traffic in all areas of El Centro was palpable. But the north/south theory really held true. Here was utilitarian El Centro, with a chicken stand right next to a plumbing supply, and everything in between. I never got panhandled, I never got harassed in any way. If anything, I was ignored - which is what I seek!

I continued walking, taking a northerly route because I wanted to head up to Teatro Macedonia Alcalá, where I planned to be at 10:30am for the live screening of the New York Metropolitan Opera's premiere of Verdi's "Falstaff."

I bought my ticket. I was just as excited about getting inside this fin d'siecle Opera House (click for video) as I was to see the premiere. Both were incredible. I made a 360 photosphere (click for 360 photosphere) of the interior that came out pretty good. During intermission, I moved to a balcony seat, which are in little private rooms, two seats to a booth. I've never been to the Ford Theater in Washington DC, but I kept a sharp eye out for assassins.

You would assume, as I did, that the virtual experience of watching an opera on a big screen versus the live one would make it pale in comparison. Indeed, in many obvious ways it did. But the video presentation was wonderful, and included live interviews with the performers, along with live views behind the curtain during set changes. That's something you never get to see in a live performance.

As I was waiting outdoors for the doors to open, there were four older Americans next to me. I engaged one of them in conversation, asking him if he lived here. Indeed he did, giving me valuable information as to logistics regarding living here.

This City!
I realize it's only my fourth day, but everything about this place is so attractive to me, and hits on all of my cylinders. It seems limitless in that way that good cities operate - everything from living like a local and going to mercados, to going to art shows and lectures and such, is seriously within grasp. I really like the neighborhood I'm living in, the more I see the city the more I like its location. It's up on a hillside looking west, and where you drop into El Centro from Calle Panoramica dictates whether you will head north or south of Avenida Independencia.

I've been using the basilica Nuestra Señora de Soledad as my focal point for El Centro. I've been spending inordinate amounts of time inside the basilica and the little cepilla attached behind the apse. And today I found a funny little restaurant (click for video) featuring homemade food and a camarera who enjoyed practicing her English with me. Plus, not a tourist in sight.

After my late (2:30) lunch (first meal of the day) I ventured down to a church I've been wanting to check out called called Templo de Santa María del Ex-Marquesado that's pretty close to where I'm staying, actually my apartment looks down upon it a few steep blocks away. It's to the west along a feeder street (Division Ote.) that comes storming out of downtown like a dragon, breathing fire and belching smoke. I was able to walk on the shady side of street for about nine blocks until I got to the back of the church. I headed down the little cross street to get in front of it, and there was a big open plaza in front of it with hardly anybody in it. There's a little parochial school attached to it that seemed to have things going on, but it seemed like the church itself was closed, although I never tried the front door.

The main reason I go to so many churches is that they offer a tranquil and reflective environment amid all the chaos of traveling, and often have great artworks in their colonial (in this area) architecture. Plus, they stay cool when it's hot like it is here in April. Oh, and they're free.

Near the Templo there's a street called Alfonso Perez Gasga that goes uphill and connects with Calle Panoramica just a few hundred feet from my apartment. Later, during my evening outing, it dawned on me that the location of my apartment allows many different ways home, almost like the street encircles downtown.

Back Home for A Spell
I was surprised that it was already 4:30pm when I got home. Since then I've been sitting in front of the circulating fan, processing videos and dictating into this blog before I head back out. I'm going to go back to the basilica to see if anything's happening on this 5th Saturday of Lent, with tomorrow being Palm Sunday. The indigenous street vendors are selling all kinds of unusual items that seem to be related to Palm Sunday. I want to find out more...

Templo de Santa María del Ex-Marquesado

Marian Shrine, Calle Panoramica del Fortin

Out and About This Evening
Well, it was a fairly uneventful evening. I left the apartment around 7:30pm and headed for the familiar basilica neighborhood. I decided to walk down Calle Independencia, and ended up taking it all the way to Calle Manuel Bravo as I nosed my way to the Zocalo. Hungry-ish, I ended up stopping in a little taco restaurant called Roy's. I had two 'drowned' tacos: one with skirt steak the other with pastor. I guess they call them drowned because they sit on the plate side by side more like a couple of enchiladas, covered in a green avocado sauce. They also brought me a mango juice, which was pretty refreshing since it was cut with something, probably water. The tacos were pretty good but what was most impressive was the condiment stand that comes with when you sit down. Not the most memorable of meals, but it served its purpose.

Taco condiments, Roy's Tacos

Back Home
I decided to start heading home. Google Maps reminded me that Calle Manuel Bravo pretty much ends at the south end of the street I live on, Calle Panoramica del Fortin. It's less than a 20 minute walk from the Zocalo, and not as steep as I imagined. So, that's the direction I went.

I soon realized I was in the mood for something sweet, and it wasn't until I was close to home that I found a little family joint that was open and sold some pretty good flan. Satiated, I walked home eating it from a little paper plate. I need to remember that there's two good restaurants (with live music) and a couple of food stands very close to my place on Calle Panoramica.

Once again, I really like this neighborhood. I like the fact that it sits above El Centro away from the maddening crowds and traffic of El Centro. I like the fact that there aren't many visiting foreigners. It's got a quiet, local vibe.

It seems like it's pretty flat downtown, perhaps in most other directions. Maybe east to Xoxhimilco barrio it's not so flat - I'll try and check that out before my time is up here.

I was surprised that churches were pretty much closed up tonight, I don't know why but I thought they'd be open, being Holy Week and all. I think tomorrow I'm going to get up as early as possible and head down to the basilica and see what's going on. After that I might try and find a bus to Octlán. It's time to get out of town for a minute.

The Great Pretender

The Great Pretender

This was a good walking day. I broke 20,000 steps.

División Ote., Oaxaca de Juarez